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Trip Report
The Wonders of the Filipino Mountains: A Six-Day Road Trip North of Baguio
Discover the B-side of the Philippines: beautiful landscapes and rich culture of the mountain region
+ 7
AsiaPhilippines4 days / January 2024
Highs & Lows
The chance to venture completely off the beaten tourist path.
The downside is that when it comes to accommodation, your options can be quite limited.
Itinerary Overview
While the Philippines is often associated with pristine beaches and beautiful white sand, surprise, surprise… the country also shelters beautiful mountain regions.
If you're a fan of hiking, enjoying delicious food, immersing yourself in beautiful landscapes, discovering the rich culture of local communities (and if you want to admire the amazing badass style and attitude of the kids on their motorbikes hanging out in front of their high schools), then head north on the island of Luzon.
Some places, like Sagada or Banaue – I didn't get to see the later but heard amazing things about – are quite popular. However, in other locations, you'll feel like you’re alone in the world (or at leas the only tourist) amidst lush nature.
Keep in mind that distances can be quite significant on the road, but as with any road trip, the journey itself is part of the adventure. You'll be rewarded with spectacular scenery, including dramatic cliffs, majestic mountains, and verdant rice fields, as well as the sight of beautifully staged and decorated villages.
Kabayan Dive into the rhythm of the mountains and savor its beauty and serenity.
2+If you're feeling a bit too lazy (or old, like me) to take the bus, renting a car is a great alternative. It offers flexibility in your itinerary and allows you to stop whenever you feel like enjoying the breathtaking views at the numerous cafes lining the road. We managed to find a – and perhaps the only - car rental agency in Baguio (look for Ya Habibi Car Rental).
The road between Baguio and Kabayan is particularly beautiful and offers the opportunity to enjoy a stunning sunrise above a sea of clouds from Mount Pulag (2926m) if you're up for starting the hike around 1 am. Trust me, it's worth it.
Don't forget to explore the shops in Kabayan. They offer some fantastic second-hand sweaters and T-shirts from the US or Japan.
Sabangan Experience the full mountain life
2+Sabangan, located 2.5 hours north of Kabayan and 45 minutes before Sagada, is a charming village secluded in a peaceful valley. From there, you can embark on a tough but wonderful hike to Mount Kalawitan. This can be arranged with a guide at the Tourism Center. Don't forget to have dinner at the Saydawan restaurant near Nacagang junction – the owner makes the most delicious sizzling Sisig in the country (and I have tried many).
Sagada is a must-visit destination in the region. Despite getting pretty quiet at night, there are still neat shops, cafes, and restaurants to explore. The Sagada Coffee Shop offers awesome views, and don't miss the Sagada Weaving Shop to see artisans working with traditional crafts. Oh, and there's this clothing shop across the street with some cool vintage and second-hand outfits. I have to admit, I missed out on seeing the hanging coffins (the main touristy attraction). I however had a terrific time chilling by Bokong Falls for a swim (You can find it through a little bamboo gate near the Cascade Café, just a bit out of town) and watching a fun basketball game between high school cool kids at the city court while munching on some killer lemon pie - a local specialty.the Sagada Weaving Shop to see artisans doing their thing with traditional crafts.
Q & A
Tips you would give a friend?
Don't necesseraly trust Google maps when looking for places like restaurants or accomodations. A lot of them are not registered or they are marked in the wrong locations. Better to ask locals!Packing tips?
It can get pretty cold during hikes as you get to higher altitudes. Make sure you have a warm sweater or a fleece jacket.Transportation Tips?
It's not common to rent a private car in this region; typically, Filipinos hire a minivan with a driver if they prefer not to take the bus. However, I highly recommend renting a car so you can explore off-the-beaten-path locations that are a bit away from the more traditional tourist spots.
Lodging
Pinecone Lodge and Restaurant I believe this is the only hotel in the village. The place has a rustic charm, the owner is friendly and provides excellent recommendations for hiking. They can also arrange dinner for you.
Ina Imelda's Transcient house It offers a very basic (and affordable) room, arranged for us by our super-friendly contact from the tourist center.