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Trip Report

The unlikely culinary and spa experience in the countryside of Hungary

Discover what the countryside of Hungary has to offer in a traditional vine region with natural thermal springs. The trip was a while ago, but I've checked now for updates (2022) they are still valid.

  • Bock Pince - there are even more impressive places under the ground, go check it our for yourself (picture free to use from wikipedia)+ 6
  • Pincesor Villány - Traditional cellars (picture free to use from wikipedia)
  • Bock Pince
  • The unlikely culinary and spa experience in the countryside of Hungary
fanni fekete
About Me:I am on my dream vacation right now: it's going somewhere very far away from home for half a year and just experiencing the culture and a journey inside and out. Right now, I am doing this in Latin America. I hope to learn about different ... read more

EuropeHungary4 days / May 2018

Highs & Lows

The visit in the vine cellar and underground event center of Bock winery.

The Harkány Thermal spa is quite retro, and the water is naturally sulfuric, if you're not a fan of that, skip it.

Itinerary Overview

Eastern Europe is amazing. It is a mix of different cultures and languages (mostly slavic, except for Hungary and Romania). The nature is great from the hills to rivers, to the seas. However most of the tourists only visit the capital cities or the beaches at the Mediterranean sea.

But in each country, the rural areas have so much to offer and discover. Villány is a hidden gem for foodies and wine-lovers, also a place where you'll not have a big culture shock if you are coming from Western Europe. Therefore it can be a great start of a roadtrip to discover the half of Europe you know so little about!

  • 4 Nights: Villány
    Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too.
  • Day trip: Harkány
    Small village with natural thermal water and a retro spa
  • Day trip: Siklós
    Historic fortress on the hill and modern spa in the village
  • Day trip: Pécs
Villány - Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too.
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Villány Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too.

Villány - Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too. - Bock Pince - there are even more impressive places under the ground, go check it our for yourself (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Bock Pince - there are even more impressive places under the ground, go check it our for yourself (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Villány - Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too. - Pincesor Villány - Traditional cellars (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Pincesor Villány - Traditional cellars (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Villány - Wine village where you find the old traditions still along the modern producers and some fine dining options too. - Bock Pince3+
Bock Pince

Villány is a small village in the south of Hungary, close to the Croatian border. It has a specific micro climate for cultivating wine (mostly dry red), it's been a tradition for centuries here. The interesting thing, is that many families kept their small businesses producing their own wine and selling them at the cellars of "pincesor" which translates to "cellar street". Also there are bigger producers, they have high quality selection and all of them have restaurants that provide great food that matches the wine, and you can take a sneak peak into their cellars as well. 

We rented a small house in Villány, and used it as our base. During the days we took our car and did daytrips nearby and in the afternoons/evenings we visited different wineries. So this was a foodie-trip.

The first company we visited is the Bock Pincészet. As a guest of the restaurant you can take a tour in their cellar for free (the guides speak English too). During the tour you'll see the impressive 100 meter long cellar full of barrels and also and underground event center that looks like a sanctuary for wine. I recommend booking a table in advance (especially for weekends) because their restaurant is very popular.

The second was Gere Pincészet (Mandula Restaurant) here we went full on fancy and tried the degustation dinner that included tastes of six wines with a six-course menu perfectly designed for the wine. As of 2022 this menu is 20 500 HUF (around 55 EUR) per person, it's far below the prices of the capital, and the services are even better. So if you want to pamper yourself a bit, it is the perfect place to try out something special.

The Sauska Pincészet is the "youngest" of all, but they caught up in the race quite fast despite being newcomers. Their restaurant is at the edge of the village, overlooking the vineyards on the hills, a prefect place to watch the sunset.

So there you have it! All the fancy stuff we tried on our trip!

Harkány - Small village with natural thermal water and a retro spa
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Harkány Small village with natural thermal water and a retro spa

Harkány - Small village with natural thermal water and a retro spa - Thermal Spa Harkány (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Thermal Spa Harkány (picture free to use from wikipedia)

Harkány is a village with a natural thermal spring that has a very high concentration of carbonyl-sulfide (COS) this is a dissolved gas, that has many health benefits for people with arthritis, and has a good effect on any type of inflammation, also gives the water a very particular sulfuric smell.

The Thermal Spa has a retro feel to it, but it you're not afraid of trying out something different with a smelly water, you can have a lot of fun. Apart from the pools, there are saunas, jacuzzis, and massages available. In case you fall in love with the smelly water you can purchase cosmetics made from the thermal water here. The particular thing about Hungary is that it has loads of natural not springs, and we love to construct spas on them! In total we have 157 thermal spas (including the smallest ones). The water is a bit different in each, and it has proven health benefits, so it sometimes happen that people get prescriptions from their doctors to go to the spas. How cool is that?

Siklós - Historic fortress on the hill and modern spa in the village
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Siklós Historic fortress on the hill and modern spa in the village

Siklós - Historic fortress on the hill and modern spa in the village - Fortress in Siklós (picture free to use from wikipedia)
Fortress in Siklós (picture free to use from wikipedia)

If you are longing for a spa experience but you prefer modern surroundings, the Thermal Spa of Siklós is the place for you. The water is hot but not sulfuric, so the smell is not funny at all. The spa is quite new, you will be able to enjoy your time in modern surroundings. Personally I prefer the Harkány spa, because it feels more local and special, but it is not for everyone.

In Siklós I highly recommend to take 1-2 hours to check out the fortress. It has a visitor center and you can also check their website for events, because form time to time they have special tours and reenactment of historic events or costume plays, to show the visitors what life used to look in the medieval ages.

Pécs - null
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Pécs

Pécs - null - City of Pécs (picture free to use from wikipedia)
City of Pécs (picture free to use from wikipedia)

Pécs is the center of the region, its a picturesque city with a great history. The center is super nice, you will find a mixed architecture of Turkish and classical buildings. The classical buildings are from the times when Hungary used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The two countries were very wealthy back then, thus a lot of infrastructural development and residential building construction took place. This is why you see similarities between Budapest and Vienna, but you find this style in the countryside as well. The other type is from the medieval ages: the Ottoman empire used to stretch to Europe as well, dividing Hungary. Pécs used to be a part of it, and still has the Mosque and the Minaret. The mosque is used as a christian temple since centuries, but it has the original Turkish architecture.

In the spring and summer time there are loads of cultural activities: concerts, open air theater and many more. The city also has a big university with a very nice and modern campus. Might be a great destination for Erasmus studies as well!

Q & A

  • Restaurant recommendations?

    Classy restaurants to visit: Mandula Étterem (Gere Pincészet), Bock Óbor Étterem, Sauska 48. You'll see the recommendations under the location of "Villány" you'll not regret visiting these.
  • Transportation Tips?

    I recommend to rent a car to be flexible with daytrips. If you go for the wine experience, stay in Villány, so you'll not have to drive in the evenings. Bare in mind, that in Hungary we have a "zero-tolerance" rule for alcohol when driving, not even a glass of wine is accepted.
  • Any surprises?

    At the pincesor we found a smaller cellar with a garden: Maczkó pincészet. The rosé was great, and "mackó" is "bear" in Hungarian, and to go with it, they had a super cute design theme for their bottles.

Lodging

  • Zsigmond Vendégház This is a traditional local house transformed into a B'n'B, it's very tidy and furnished in a cute rustic style. The garden is beautiful, the host is very kind, and the breakfast is exceptional. We loved staying here, one of the best examples of countryside hospitality.