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Trip Report
Southern Cambodia Beach, Bamboo and Boho
Budget eco barefoot luxe - is that even a thing? It is in Southern Cambodia. Think perfect tropical beaches, eco resorts, overwater bamboo bungalows, dawn yoga and pepper crabs with papaya salad.
+ 60
AsiaCambodia11 days / November 2019
Highs & Lows
Undeveloped tropical island paradises, eco accommodation, food journeys and cultural discoveries
Everything about Sihanoukville and crazy taxi drivers
Itinerary Overview
This itinerary has to be my favourite trip ever! I curated this adventure for a girls trip and I was keen to create something that was both budget friendly and entirely memorable. This itinerary nailed it!
The focus of this trip was food, beaches, yoga and barefoot budget relaxation with water views. We wanted some adventure, and we wanted to travel sustainably. But most importantly, I wanted this to be a really unique trip. Nearly every night was spent waterfront, and some of the accommodations in this trip are just unforgettable.
So this trip starts and ends in Phnom Penh, and focusses on the Southern coast of Cambodia. On arrival into Phnom Penh, we set off immediately for Kampot and spent 4 days in the region. Think fresh crabs, Kampot peppers and lying on a hammock in a bamboo overwater bungalow watching the best sunsets you'll ever see.
Hard to beat, but then we headed down to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Imagine Thai islands 25 years ago before the big resorts moved in, eating fresh seafood on the beach and some of the coolest backpacker bars in the world.
Then back up to Phnom Penh to check out Cambodian city life, more amazing food and some history lessons that will change you forever.
Krong Kampot The region is famous for peppers and seafood, and I wanted to go somewhere really unique. Kampot fit the bill perfectly
14+Day 1 - After the long drive down from Phnom Penh, we settled in to enjoy Sabay Beach Resort for the afternoon. We started with a late lunch at the restaurant, then grabbed some kayaks to explore the Preaek Tuek Chhu River. Afterwards, we just kicked back in the comfy hammocks to enjoy a cocktail and watch the sunset. An afternoon of bliss! We topped it off with a visit to Kampot Night Market for some street food and shopping.
Day 2 - We hired a Tuk Tuk and set off to explore the region. We visited Secret Lake (Brateak Krola Lake) and La Plantation Pepper Farm for a tour and some pepper tasting. Afterward we headed north to Kep to check out the crab markets. We ended the day back at Sabay Beach to enjoy the best sunset I have ever seen.
Day 3 - We enjoyed day 2 too much and just did it again! We did the cooking class at La Plantation then went back up to Kep for a crab dinner. We moved to Eden Eco Village which I'd booked because I couldn't decide between these two properties. Honestly, I'm so glad I did. Eden Eco Village was absolutely amazing. We had an overwater bungalow with hammocks over the water, and just watched another ridiculously beautiful sunset. Afterward we checked out the backpacker bar next door (Yellow Sun Hostel Bar)- what a crazy and fun night!
Day 4 - We started with some yoga, then decided to spend the day kayaking and checking out Kampot town. First of all, the kayaking here is just amazing. Check out the 'Green Cathedral' which is a kayak loop that takes you through lush palm laden canals. There are some great little bars on the river you can stop in at for a drink or break too. We visited Bokor Night Market for some delicious papaya salad and local fares, then headed back to that wicked backpacker bar next door after dinner.
Day 5 - A morning yoga session and some yummy home made organic breakfast, and we were off to the islands...
La Plantation Tasting famous Kampot peppers was always on my list for this trip
2+La Plantation is a must do day trip if you're in the Kampot region. The farm is known for its peppers, but it produces many other spices and other products.
We started with a tour of the plantation which was really fascinating and well delivered. Afterward we did a pepper tasting...and my taste for pepper will never be the same. I had no idea there were so many different types and tastes of peppers. It was a really enjoyable visit.
While there we checked out the restaurant where there was a cooking class happening. It looked too good to miss, so we booked it for the following day and returned.
The cooking class was sensational, and I highly recommend that you plan to spend a day at La Plantation so you can do the tour, the tasting and the cooking class in one visit.
Kep Province Because a crab market has to be visited!
4+If you're a fan of local markets and seafood, this will be a dream destination!
The market is built up to the edge of the Chhak Kep Bay. You go out the water edge, select your seafood or crabs from the baskets that the vendors pull up out of the water, then they weigh them and cook them for you right on the water....with Kampot Peppers.
You can walk through the market for a seafood feast. There are grills cooking fresh seafood of all kinds - maybe add a skewer of octopus or a side of fresh clams?
The market has all kinds of local produce, so maybe finish of your meal with a big ripe Durian or some other exotic SE Asian fruit.
There is some decent clothes shopping here also, and plenty of places to buy an ice cold beer to pair with your seafood feast.
We went back for seconds the next day. Is there ever too much crab to be eaten?
Koh Rong Sanloem Who doesn't want to spend time on a tropical island?
7+Day 5 - After a long and frankly frightening taxi ride from Kampot, we arrived in Sihanoukville to catch a ferry over to Koh Rong Samloem.
My advise on Sihanoukville - spend as little time as possible here! This has to be the ugliest place I've visited in a long time. When we were there it was like one huge construction site with ugly trashy looking casinos being built everywhere. Don't spend a moment more than you need to in Sihanoukville.
The speed ferry takes about 50 minutes to get you to Koh Rong Samloem, but once you arrive you are in paradise!
We spent the remainder of our day enjoying the beach, sipping cocktails and camping on the in water hammocks.
We took a stroll down the beach for dinner, found a nice beach restaurant where we ate fresh seafood BBQ'd on the beach, then grabbed a bean bag to watch the fire shows on the sand.
Day 6 - Tropical Islands are for lazy days, so we took the track over to the opposite side of the island to visit Lazy Beach. Another cool backpacker bar and another stunning beach.
Afterwards, more beach lazing, cocktails and seafood. Bliss
Day 7 - We booked a long tail boat for some snorkelling (which was fantastic) and stopped in at M-Pai Bay which is a backpacker's paradise. If you get to M-Pai Bay, take the walk up to The Cliff Hostel - they have the coolest bar overlooking Koh Rong from the clifftop. One of my favourite bars ever!
Afterward we headed back to Saracen Bay Beach in the dark. As it was nigh time, we stopped to jump in and swim with some bioluminescent plankton that was sparkling in the waves.
Day 8 - We had to head over to Koh Rong at lunch, but we took another walk over to Lazy Beach in the morning for breakfast. I can't wait to get back for more lazy days on Lazy Beach.
Koh Rong A tropical party island? why not!
13+Day 8, 9 and 10 - After a short ferry ride from Koh Rong Samloem, we arrived for lunch in Koh Touch Beach on Koh Rong. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and shopping options in the little village, so we had a look around before heading to the other end of the beach to our hotel.
The next few days were spent just hanging about on Koh Rong. We did breakfast daily at the Treehouse Villas, spent time on (my favourite beach in the world) 4K beach. Had beach seafood BBQs for dinner each evening, swam about with luminescent plankton in the warm shallow beach each night, enjoyed some massages, cocktails and lots of swimming.
I could live on Koh Rong island.
Phnom Penh Experience Cambodian city life and learn more about the countries history
5+We had less than 24 hours in Phnom Penh, which absolutely was not long enough. I really wanted to visit the Genocide Museum and Centre, which is emotionally draining but something I think every visitor to Cambodia should do. In fact, I'd recommend it as a first stop so that as a traveller you are understanding the recent history that impacts every Cambodian you will meet. I have never met a local who doesn't have their own story of tragedy in their family from the Khmer Rouge period.
Phnom Penh has plenty of other things to see and do too. We did some shopping and street food at the Central Market and spent some time exploring the Grand Palace. I also recommend the Phnom Penh Night Market for some great street food and shopping.
Q & A
What would you have changed?
I would have made this trip longer. I'd like to have visited Rabbit Island off the Kep coast, and I'd do another day or two in Phnom Penh. And lets be honest, who wouldn't do more time on a tropical Island? I'd done Siem Reap the year before, but I'd absolutely recommend adding Siem Reap to this itinerary if you're visiting Cambodia for the first time.Anything go wrong during the trip?
There were major road works on the highway between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville during our trip so the road was nothing more than dirt. There is not much in road rules, so the drive down was pretty scary. We opted for a bus on the way back which took longer, but at least we weren't stressed by crazy driving.Restaurant recommendations?
The food in Cambodia is amazing. We at so much fresh seafood, but I also suggest trying the local dishes too. Be brave and try street food at local markets.Tips you would give a friend?
Avoid Sihanoukville. You need to go through to catch a ferry to the islands, but do not book a night there if you can avoid it. It really is the worst city I have ever visited.Packing tips?
Pack light weight clothes, but if you go to Phnom Penh first, you can pick up some fantastic light weight clothes super cheap.Transportation Tips?
Cambodian transport is a bit of an adventure. The taxis we took from Phnom Penh - Kampot - Sihanoukville were pretty scary rides. They were much faster than the buses, but be warned. Our driver was using 2 mobile phones at one stage, while driving at 100+kms per hour on a dirt highway with no lanes. There are domestic flights available from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, and there is a train that runs a couple of days per week too. Maybe consider these options.Any surprises?
I'd heard Sihanoukville wasn't great, so I did not book accommodation there. But I was surprised at how awful it actually was.Booking details?
I booked through Agoda.
Lodging
I couldn't decide between two properties I'd been checking out in Kampot, so I ended up booking 2 nights at each. Both properties were amazing! Nights 1-2 - We stayed at Sabay Beach. The drive from Phnom Penh airport was.....interesting. I've travelled a bit, but this trip was an adventure in itself. When we finally did get into Kampot, we had another 20 minutes of dirt road before we arrived at our destination. By this time, I was worried I'd made a big mistake.....Then we arrived at Sabay Beach, and I can confirm that it was worth every bit of that bumpy dirt road (and the dusty crazy highway from Phnom Penh!). As soon as we arrived at Sabay Beach, I knew we would love it. We booked a riverfront room, and it was VERY well priced! The room was decorated in a boho style and was everything I hoped it would be. And the food....OMG, organic, locally produced, delicious food and with a cool outdoor vibe overlooking the river. And the sunset...I have never seen better sunsets than in Kampot. We were so in love with Sabay Beach that we nearly cancelled the next property...but I an SOOO glad we didn't. Nights 3 -4 Eden Eco Village This place is basic, but absolutely a must do. I'll be honest, 4 nights here might have been a bit rough, but you absolutely must do 2 nights! Overwater bungalows with hammocks over the river, kayaking, free yoga and the most delicious organic breakfasts. I'll let the photos do the talking. Oh and the price is right. Think $20USD a night...
We stayed in a beachfront villa (with air con) at Paradise Villa on Koh Rong Sanloem. Our villa was metres from the water and absolutely delightful. This property is located on the eastern end of Saracen Bay Beach very close to the jetty. Paradise Villas is located on the quiter end of Saracen Bay Beach, but the restaurant here is probably one of the best on the island - a real beach boho vibe and a good menu too. The beach is shallow, and there are hammocks in the water that you can just kick back and relax on.
We booked another beachfront villa at White Beach Bungalows on Koh Touch Beach. It was located at the quiet end of the beach, but only a 5-10 minute walk along the sand to the party area.
We stayed at Point Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh. It was a great city hotel with a hip rooftop bar located in the main tourist strip and in walking distance to plenty of restaurants, the night market and the riverside.