Paradise island, Medieval Cities and Surprisingly Beautiful Towns
- + 19
Europe5 days / August 2017
Highs & Lows
The island Hvar
Eating vegan in Trebinje was a difficult one. I asked for a pizza without cheese and I was almost burned as witch.
A short boat ride from Split in Croatia and you’ll find a Paradisal Island called Hvar. It has strict limits in acceptable behaviour so naked torsos in the town centre is off limits, you’ll be fined for drinking in the street and there is a limit to how many people can visit the island at one time. But this creates an amazing charm. Makes it something really special to behold without being overwhelmed by tourists.
The beaches are full of white sand and rocks you can jump off, which is great cos you’ll want to jump in the sea on account of the heat very often.
In terms of food, I’d recommend an amazing restaurant, with a seating area in a nice shaded area called Fig Hvar. The food and the service was second to none!
Trvada Fortica is well worth a climb for an amazing sunset!
Of course the boat ride there or back is also an amazing way to refresh and empower.
I had a cancellation for my Airbnb in Dubrovnik, and in peak season Americans had made the Atlantic wide journey to see their favourite Game of Thrones sets. It meant finding alternative accommodation was hard. So I widened my search and ended up finding something stunning in Trebinje. I hadn’t accounted for the European border between Bosnia and Croatia, so if you’re on a bus my top tip would be to get off and walk to the border, there will be another bus on the otherside waiting for you.
Trebinje is a really small town in Bosnia, but it is beautiful and well maintained. I stayed in a beautiful Airbnb on the river front, which I was able to launch a kayak from. For a chance to completely relax and recover from busy tourist areas I’d recommend dropping a pin on a map and just going for it.
The Pizzeria Garden in Trebinje is lovely but be prepared for baffled faces if you ask for a pizza without cheese. Veganism isn’t really there yet.
If you do end up in Trebinje, I’d recommended a kayak down the river and a trip to Tvrdos Monastery for the best views from the mountain over the town.
Next I was able to secure somewhere to live in Dubrovnik and was meeting a dear old friend from home. We stayed a little outside the city in an Airbnb, but they told us they had bicycles so we could use them to get in and out. Be warned, Dubrovnik is hilly.
There is so much to see and do in Dubrovnik that maybe 2 days isn’t enough. But my top recommendations include a visit to the island in the middle of the bay, it’s a wildlife sanctuary filled with peacocks amongst other things.
I’m a huge fan of abandoned building and Dubrovnik has a shed load across the coast line. Many had been damaged by artillery and never repaired. For a bit of urban exploring, hit the coast with a bike and a lock.
Urban Veggie is an incredible place to grab veganised versions of traditional Croatian dishes, so you don’t feel left out!
Q & A
What would you have changed?
I should have booked a hostel in Dubrovnik. I don’t need to Airbnb all the time!
Anything go wrong during the trip?
Having my accommodation cancelled at the last minute was a bit annoying. But generally if something goes wrong it’s very easily fixed so just relax and enjoy another town.
How was the food?
Literally everywhere has the best grilled vegetables. In doubt when you’re vegan? Just order the grilled greens.
What tips would you give a friend?
Don’t cycle. It seems like a good idea but the hills and heat are oppressive. Ubers are cheaper than you can imagine and they even have a boat service!
There is no reason to bring everything you own. Pack light and wash in the sink. Your back will thank you.
Uber by boat. It’s as cool as it sounds.
The sheer amount of American tourists in Dubrovnik. I understand it’s a Game of Thrones set and it was very big at the time. Perhaps it’s calmed down now.