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Trip Report

Bike tour across the Ruhr region in Germany

2 days by bike along the pearls of industrial culture in the Ruhr area with overnight stay in Essen-Heisingen

  • Industrial culture along R21 high-speed cycle route+ 7
  • bnbbird: cozy bedroom
  • bnbbird: stylish bathroom
  • Bike tour across the Ruhr region in Germany
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AtlasGuru Contributor

EuropeGermany2 days / July 2022

Highs & Lows

Lake Baldeney in the morning sun - when hardly any other people are around

The bathing place in Bochum-Dahlhausen which is situated directly under the power pylons ;)

Itinerary Overview

I started my super nice bike tour in the Ruhr region in Mülheim an der Ruhr along the first completed section of the RS1 high-speed cycle route to Essen. At the height of the University, you can easily switch to another bike path that connects the pearls of industrial culture Zeche Zollverein in Essen and Jahrhunderthalle in Bochum. In Bochum you have a connection to the Springorum route - a former mining route, which nowadays leads very pleasantly down to the Ruhr in Dahlhausen. From there I followed the Ruhr and got accommodation in Heisingen.

Heisingen is the perfect starting point for trips to the nearby Lake Baldeney - just roll down the steep hill! The next morning I took advantage of this to be at the lake early in the morning and following the Ruhrtal cycle route without the usual weekend tourist caravans. Pretty half-timbered towns like Werden and Kettwig lie along the route and are worth a visit. From Kettwig, the path leads somewhat away from the Ruhr through fields and paddocks finally back to the starting point Mühlheim.

  • 1 Night: Heisingen
    Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour
  • 1 Night: Mülheim
    Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour
Heisingen - Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour
1

Heisingen Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour

Heisingen - Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour - bnbbird: cozy bedroom
bnbbird: cozy bedroom
Heisingen - Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour - bnbbird: stylish bathroom
bnbbird: stylish bathroom
Heisingen - Overnight stay during a 2 day bicycle tour - Industrial culture along Ruhrtal cycle route2+
Industrial culture along Ruhrtal cycle route

Essen-Heisingen is a perfect spot to stay on your way along te Ruhrtal cycle route and also a genius starting point for trips to the nearby Lake Baldeney.

I spent one night in the beautiful Heisingen in the BnB of the warm hosts Gabi & Jörg. You get a granny apartment in a spacious detached house, you have your own entrance, a super modern bathroom and a cozy bedroom - all furnished with attention to detail. From the colorful wallpaper in the bedroom to the black tiles in the shower, the entire interior is very funky and special. 

Breakfast is available in several bakeries nearby and also for a proper dinner after the first long day on the bike you have several restaurants to choose from in Heisingen.  I went for dinner at "Zur Alten Schmette" - simple, but good food, easy going atmosphere and a good spot to get in contact with the locals ;)

Mülheim - Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour
2

Mülheim Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour

Mülheim - Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour - River view
River view
Mülheim - Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour - At Franky's there is a nearby boat dock
At Franky's there is a nearby boat dock
Mülheim - Rest at the Ruhr during a 2 days bicycle tour - Industrial culture along R21 high-speed cycle route2+
Industrial culture along R21 high-speed cycle route

Shortly before the end of the tour, you can take a nice rest on the banks of the Ruhr to enjoy the river again to the fullest. The hotel with restaurant and beer garden Franky's Wasserbahnhof is located nearby the Ruhrtal cycle route. Watch out for the first big road (August-Thyssen-Straße) you have to cross after the field paths and do not follow the bike path sign to Mühlheim-Saarn, but turn right onto the road. After a few hundred meters you will reach Franky's - just cycle right in front of the parking lot over a small path directly to the back area with beer garden. Here you will find a huge meadow directly at the Ruhr - grab a lemonade, a sausage or french fries and swing yourself into one of the deck chairs. From here you can watch birds, small boats and SUP paddlers on the river and gather new strength for the last stage of your tour.

Before you finally get back on the S-Bahn at the train station in Mülheim an der Ruhr, you can stop at the newly designed river promenade.
Here you also have numerous refreshment options and can look beautifully on the water. I choosed the italian coffee shop at the harbor, just before the boardwalk begins, where I treated myself to a coffee and a really good Tiramisu to finish.
After that you take a detour over the "MüGa - Mülheims Garten an der Ruhr" behind the cityhall and follow the signs to the Ruhrtal cycle route RS1 again. In a few minutes you are at the train station, where you have connections to all major cities in the Ruhr area and to Düsseldorf and Cologne.

 

Q & A

  • What would you have changed?

    Start early in the morning, so you have enough time left to visit Zeche Zollverein in Essen and hop into the Ruhr at the end of your first day. In my case, it rained in the morning, so waited for the weather to improve first.
  • Restaurant recommendations?

    In Heisingen, I went for dinner at "Zur Alten Schmette" - simple, but good food, easy going atmosphere and a good spot to get in contact with the locals who are drinking shots there ;)
  • Tips you would give a friend?

    Take a break in Essen-Kettwig on your first day - rather than in Werden. Kettwig is a small old town, has some cute shops and a church worth a visit because there is also a great viewing point nearby.
  • Transportation Tips?

    Take the S1 to Mühlheim an der Ruhr main station, which goes every half an hour from both directions - Solingen and Dortmund. The RS1 high-speed cycle route to Essen starts directy at the main station - just follow the signs.
  • Booking details?

    Jörg from b2bbird doesn't have WhatsApp - the easiest way to book is to just call him. Then you also get a first impression of his kindness ;)

Lodging

  • I spent one night in the beautiful Heisingen in the bnbbird of the warm hosts Gabi & Jörg. The two are also happy to travel by bike, especially in Holland, and have experienced a lot of hospitality, which they would like to pass on. It felt like visiting good friends while sitting with them in their wonderful garden with a welcome drink ;)

  • The hotel with restaurant and beer garden Franky's Wasserbahnhof is located in Mülheim-Saarn along the Ruhrtal cycle route. Here you will find a huge meadow directly at the Ruhr -here you can swing yourself into one of the deck chairs in the sun to chill and enjoy the river view.